Showing posts with label san martin. Show all posts
Showing posts with label san martin. Show all posts

Monday, March 30, 2009

Dia Feriado "Holiday"

I've been wanting to blog about a recent holiday that was celebrated on March 24- a day set aside for remembering the Golpe de Estado (coup) of 1976, when the military dictatorship took over.

I have two main informants here in Argentina- Gaby y Laura. They are the people I ask questions about all things Argentine- the culture, customs, where to buy something, the history the politics (I also learn Spanish from Gaby y Laura). The day after the holiday, Laura brought in some information about La Dictadura to read and discuss during our lesson. I learned many interesting things- as we were discussing, it eventually became Laura narrating to me what things were like (though she was born just before all of this occurred). I'm going to talk about what she told me (keeping in mind that she gave me general ideas and not precise details)

Isabel Perón was the second wife of Juan Perón (his first wife being Eva/ "Evita" of course) was elected president of Argentina after Juan died. During her presidency many economic, social, and political problems arose; Laura told me there were military/political factions fighting- killing each other, bombing and kidnapping, things were in chaos.

Proceso de Reorganización Nacional- El Proceso

When the military dictatorship took over they called their reforms the National Reorganization Process- what is referred to as El Proceso.

Laura told me that during this time (1976-1983) approximately 30,000 Argentines disappeared- they were kidnapped, tortured, and murdered. A few main provinces such as Buenos Aires, Córdoba and Santiago del Estero(?) were affected by El Proceso- provinces with lots of students, political scientists, and journalists. I was told that students, journalists, political scientists- anyone who expressed sentiments or ideas opposed or not in-line with those of La Dictadura, were taken, killed, or tortured.

This sign was posted before the holiday on a building directly behind the mall- very close to where we work.
It signifies: 33 years since the coup, neither forgotten, neither pardoned.

On the 23rd of March, I was walking through the Plaza San Martín and I saw people painting these in preparation for the holiday:




The night of the 24th, there was a large march/parade with all kinds of people carrying banners and flags (FYI- pretty sure the rainbow flag here is a symbol of Andean culture, it was common to see it up north). Some of the banners had messages against violence, abuse- many were for derechos humanos (human rights).




In the Plaza San Martín, some celebrated by sitting in a circle and sharing a joint (no! we weren't "some")


There was choripan...


There were couples gettin' friendly (we always take pictures because we're still not used to the fact that PDA's are totally acceptable- you see people seriously making out on side of the street all the time).



Many children were taken during El Proceso- they were kidnapped and often times given to families of military members or to families with connections to the military. Pregnant women were tortured and their babies taken.


Madres de Plaza de Mayo

When El Proceso ended, a group of women calling themselves the Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo organized and would protest in the Plaza de Mayo in Buenos Aires- I've posted some picures from my Buenos Aires trip:

They would march outside this building (like the White House of Argentina except it's the Pink House-  literally, it's the Casa Rosada where the President resides).  The Mothers are a group dedicated to finding children and other loved ones that disappeared during the dictatorship and reuniting them with their families.

My Spanish teacher Laura told me the story of a little girl that was playing in her house while her family's maid was sweeping the floor with the TV on. There was a news special with a woman being interviewed in the Plaza de Mayo.  The woman was holding up a picture of her lost granddaughter that had been kidnapped during the dictatorship (the girl's mother was killed); the maid watching the TV stopped in shock and started crying because it was the same little girl inside the house playing!  She reported to the newspaper and helped reunite this little girl with her real family.

Laura told me that there were many cases like this, and many cases where children didn't want to leave their "military" families or have anything to do with their real families.  Imagine growing up and then finding out your "family" kidnapped you from your real parents that were probably tortured and murdered. 

Monday, February 9, 2009

Me llamo Malena

I've decided that while in Argentina, I will go by Malena. I think it's a lot easier than going by Malaina because Malena is a lot more familiar to people here, and it's easier for them to pronounce...


It's also fun to go by Malena- it rolls off the tongue nicely.  We saw this poster for a missing dog named Malena (have to italicize it, don't know why, but I have to) when we stopped for a drink last night. 
 
We found the most AMAZING handicraft market last night; it was like going to the Salt Lake Arts Festival or Portland Saturday Market and being able to afford to buy stuff!  I was TWITTERPATED (twitterpated: 1. to be completely enamored with someone/something. 2. the flighty, exciting feeling you get when you think about/see the object of your affection.)

I found a purse... 
And talked to the artist that hand-crafted it. 
It's a soft, beautiful leather purse, with a hand- painted portrait of the Mexican artist Frida Kahlo (who was married to Diego Rivera).  I asked about it, and she said excitedly, "Me encanta (love) Frieda Kahlo!" or something to that effect. (did you notice the hand-blown glass earings that I bought only moments earlier?)
The purse also has really beautiful hand stitching.  I LOVE this purse, it's exactly the type of thing I was looking for- good quality/handcrafted; this doesn't mean I won't buy another one...or two.  I'm also in the market for some nice leather shoes... good thing the market is open every weekend.

Earlier that day:

We were walking around the city and nothing was open.  All of the shops in the area were closed, and street vendors with jewelery, clothes and pirated DVDs were out.

We decided to do the tourist thing and take a city tour on one of those double- decker buses.
As we first began the tour we were thinking, "great... tourist trap."  It turned out to be a lot of fun though- everyone is so friendly.  Five or six different groups of guys waved, honked, or shouted, "Hola Chicas!"  
On the tour we stopped to see another really neat cathedral.  This one was built in the 1930's but was architecturally designed to look Gothic (there are really, really high walls and vaulted arches).  There is only one steeple- representing the perfection of God; the side without the steeple represents the imperfection of man.
There were some beautiful stained glass windows.

Later that night (after the awesome handicraft market) we walked through the Plaza San Martin to briefly watch the tango dancers.  
I originally recorded some of the dancing, but for some reason can't figure out how to rotate the frame so you can watch it right- side up.  I'll post some dancing later- Amanda and I are going to a tango class Monday evening at a cafe/hang-out near the handicraft market.  We are also starting our Spanish classes at the language school tomorrow- I'm hoping to really improve this week.

We went to church this morning; everyone was extremely nice to us.  I love the South American tradition of kissing acquaintences and friends on the cheek when you meet and say goodbye. After church was over, it seemed like we kissed everyone two or three times as we made our way towards the door.  

More to come later, I gotta' go to bed.